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InFrame needs permission to use your camera. Tap Open Settings on that screen, or go to Settings › InFrame on your iPhone, and turn on Camera. Then return to InFrame.

InFrame asks only for permission to add photos. It can’t see the pictures already in your library. To fix this, tap Open Settings in the alert, or go to Settings › InFrame › Photos, and choose Add Photos Only (or Full Access). Then tap Save All again.

On the capture screen, drag the slider just above the shutter. Drag it right to make the faded photo bolder, or left to make it subtler. Bolder is easier for lining up details, and subtler is easier for checking how the scene looks.

• Line up something fixed in the background first, like a building, a horizon, or a doorway, and let everything else follow.
• Use the thirds grid and the level indicator. The level line turns yellow, and your phone gives a light tap, when it’s straight.
• Stand in the same spot as when the frame was set. For frames you took in InFrame, the app puts your zoom, focus, exposure, white balance, and flash back for each frame, so you only have to match the position. If the photographer changes any of them, tap Use Original Settings to go back.
• Tap anywhere on the viewfinder to focus, and pinch to zoom. The zoom buttons at the bottom of the viewfinder jump between lenses.

Yes. On the home screen, tap Choose from Library and select one or more photos. They become frames in the order you picked them. While taking a frame with the camera, you can also tap the library button at the bottom left of the shutter.

Library photos are cropped to the nearest of 4:3, 1:1, or 16:9. The photographer’s camera starts from standard settings for them, since there are no saved camera settings to restore. InFrame doesn’t need access to your library for this: iOS shows its own picker, and InFrame only receives the photos you select.

Use the round buttons at the top of the camera screen. Aspect ratio switches between 4:3, 1:1, and 16:9. Exposure makes the photo brighter or darker, from −2 to +2. White balance chooses Auto, Daylight, Cloudy, Tungsten, or Fluorescent. Tap the same button, or the ✕, to close the panel and get back to the shutter.

Each frame saves its own settings. The photographer can adjust exposure and white balance too, but the aspect ratio always follows your frame so the faded photo lines up.

Yes. On the Confirm your frames screen, tap Add Frame. The photographer steps through your frames in order with Next, and taps Done after the last one. In review, each frame has its own tab.

On the Confirm your frames screen, tap the frame and choose Edit Frame. Take a new shot, or tap the library button to pick a photo instead. Tap the ✕ on a frame’s corner to remove it. Editing a frame keeps its place in the order but clears any photos already taken for the old version, since they matched the old frame.

Yes, as many as they like. The small thumbnail at the bottom left shows the last shot they took, and tapping it opens a preview. When you’re back in review, tap Take More to shoot extra photos for the frame you’re looking at.

On the handoff screen, the photographer can tap the globe button at the top right to switch the handoff, capture, and thank-you screens to English, Español, Français, Deutsch, Italiano, Português, 中文, 日本語, 한국어, or हिन्दी. Your own screens stay in your language, and the language resets when you tap Start Over.

No. Start Over discards every frame and photo that hasn’t been saved, which is why InFrame asks you to confirm first. InFrame doesn’t keep your photos anywhere else, so tap Save All in review before you start over or close the app.

Into your Photos library, in the Photos app, alongside the rest of your pictures. Once a photo is saved there, it’s a normal photo on your iPhone. If you use iCloud Photos, it syncs like any other.

Neither. InFrame works offline, and there’s nothing to sign up for. Read more in our privacy policy.

Not at the moment. InFrame is made for iPhone and needs iOS 17 or later.